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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.